Car Detailing Made Simple
Think about how much you spend in time and money on yourself daily to look good. If we spend so much on ourselves then we should spend some extra TLC on our vehicles.
I enjoy detailing cars to keep them looking in pristine condition which is especially helpful in resale. I only use the best car products and treat every vehicle as if it was my own. I try to refrain from machines and buff by hand making it safe as possible. Depending on how big the job the buffer comes in handy. Foam pads are preferred.
Here are some basic tips if you want to wash your car at home to avoid machine or “brushless” car washes:
STEP 1: WASHING- Power washer is preferred.
START WITH TIRES:
The reason I do this is because they are usually pretty nasty and I don't want to wash my car and then go and do the tires and end up slinging the dirt from the RIGHT back onto the paint that I just spent time so carefully cleaning. There are several good products to use, spray it onto your tires when they are dry and you can literally see the grime/dirt roll off. Be careful not to hit your rims...some chemicals can stain certain types of rims.
TECHNIQUE:
Probably the most important aspect that is the most ignored. A nice warm sunny day out in direct sun washing your car is about one of the worst things you can do. If you do this you will see the spots that look like rain drops...those are called water spots. Wash in the shade…. The cooler...the better.
RINSE the whole car down first. It's best to rinse off all the loose dirt and then wash off the rest that is left over.
Wash top to bottom - Most times where is the dirtiest area of your car? Well usually...unless a few birds had a party on top of your car - it's the bottom where all the dirt and mud and tar fling up to. Start at the top and wash the dirt DOWN the car...and finish by washing the dirtiest area last.
USE TWO BUCKETS
Most people who wash their car do it like this: You have one bucket....wash some dirt off of your car with your mitt - rinse that dirt out into the SAME WATER you're washing with...and then have a nice fresh swirl job on your car because your wash water was filthy. Try this - have one bucket of your nice sudsy soap water...and a second bucket of plain water that you will rinse your mitt in. That way the dirt stays with the dirt and the suds stay with the suds. If your car is extremely dirty...you may even want to change out the rinse water half way through your wash. You can also place a plastic grate “egg crate” on the bottom of the bucket that will allow the dirt drop to the bottom and off the mitt and out of the water.
THE WASHING/DRYING:
There are many different options here, Microfiber mitts, sheep skin mitts and sponges just to name a few. Which to choose? Well really, all can be good choices just as long as they are soft, taken care of and kept CLEAN.
For drying, personally I don't think you can beat a good soft Microfiber towel. They have a lesser chance of scratching your finish than a terry cloth and hold an abundance of water making your job of drying much easier. I find waffle drying cloths to be the best since they absorb the most. I like to have a few beat up ones around for doing rims but still keep them as clean as possible, as you don't want to mar your rims either.
Waxing Technique: Break the car down into 6-8 equal sections. Apply the prep/sealer/wax to one section at a time before moving on to the next. This allows you to concentrate your efforts on small areas at a time. Also, make certain you're doing all this in the shade to a cool surface, the same goes for washing.
CLAY BAR SURFACE PREP
The clay bar is the starting point for silky smooth paint. Just as the name implies, this palmed sized chunk of pliable clay is used by rubbing across the surface of your paint to remove airborne contaminates that bond to your paint. These bonded contaminates create the unwanted texture of paint that will remain unless removed specifically with some form of surface prep bar or Hi-Tech Magna Sponge.SEALANT/WAX
When it comes to protection, you have two basic choices; natural carnauba based products, or synthetic sealants. I am a big fan of all natural 100% carnauba wax for its rich multi-faceted glow. Carnauba usually lasts 3-4 months. If durability and protection is priority one, nothing outlasts than a true synthetic polymer. A synthetic polymer will last anywhere from 6-12 months depending on your specific situation with regards to weather conditions, and the frequency of attention from you. I usually apply a Sealant, wax and a glaze for ultimate gloss, protection and durability. Rinse car with water after removing wax to enhance the wax.
SPRAY WAX
As another useful free auto detailing tips, keeping a good spray as part of your arsenal is mandatory. To extend the life of your base coat, whether this be a carnauba wax or synthetic sealant, a spray wax offers a quick alternative to traditional waxing with much less effort. With advances in modern chemical engineering, you get the best of everything in spray waxes.
SYNTHETIC CHAMOIS
I am a big fan of using a chamois for your car drying chores. Synthetic chamois' offer the results of genuine chamois', without any of the drawbacks.
MICRO FIBER TOWELS
Micro fiber has now officially replaced the age old, tried and tested diaper for wax removal. If you have never experienced a micro fiber, you are in for a real treat. Another tool of car detailing that is so versatile; I continue to find more and more uses of this wonder of textile engineering. Waffle Microfiber is the best bet.
You can also wax the side and rear windows if you want, and don't forget those door jamb/hatch lid areas!
Use a newspaper or streak free window cleaner to keep that window clear. Apply RainX to the windshield. I always finish every vehicle with this. When applying this, pour it onto a paper towel and then buff it in, up and down, side to side. Repeat until thoroughly coated. Let it dry to a haze then remove it with a very soft towel. If the window happened to be extra dry you may have to apply it twice because it soaked in. This step may leave the windows slightly hazy, but very minor.
A word about electric buffers, rotary and orbital: An orbital buffer is safest for the inexperienced user and can achieve the same results as a rotary. An orbital is heavier than a rotary though. The rotary buffer is much faster than orbitals but in the wrong hands can easily damage paint. I mostly do all my waxing by hand, and heavy oxidation removal with a buffer. Rotary’s should be used only by experienced users and not by your average at-home detailer. Severe paint damage can occur!!!!
